Replace `wrap-warning-with-env-check` with an eslint plugin (#17540)

* Replace Babel plugin with an ESLint plugin

* Fix ESLint rule violations

* Move shared conditions higher

* Test formatting nits

* Tweak ESLint rule

* Bugfix: inside else branch, 'if' tests are not satisfactory

* Use a stricter check for exactly if (__DEV__)

This makes it easier to see what's going on and matches dominant style in the codebase.

* Fix remaining files after stricter check